Bird Photography

[Abhishek Paranjape]

I have never done Bird Photography in my life. Just an attempt at capturing flamingos once around Mumbai.
My query is- what Camera mode is preferable while shooting birds ?
Shutter priority, Aperture Priority or Full manual? Use of Auto-Iso in any of these modes.

I personally find logic in either using Shutter priority with Auto-Iso/fixed iso or then
Full manual with auto-iso and compensation for minor exposure changes.

But many big wildlife photographers are suggesting aperture priority +controlling the iso manually.

Can i have better explanations or logic behind either of them?

[Krish Chandran]

If you are starting out, try all the methods you have been advised and settle on what suits you best. Everyone who gave you an opinion felt it worked for them. You have to find what works best for you.

Having said that, I do not use aperture priority because I want full control of my (high) shutter speed to counter the bird's movements which frequently happen even when the bird appears static. Micro-movement of perched birds is inversely proportional to the size of the bird. Small bird-more movement, large bird-less movement.  I gave up using shutter priority quite early in my birding experience because the budget zoom tele - lenses that I started out with, had variable aperture - usually F5.6 at the short end and F6.3/F8 at the long end, complicating the issue.

I use full manual (M)with a fixed ISO for birds that are perched and full manual (M) with auto ISO for flying birds. Flying birds particularly against changing backgrounds (trees, water, open ground or sky) often require dynamic (varying) exposure for optimal tonality.

[Bharat Varma]

I have never done Bird Photography in my life. Just an attempt at capturing flamingos once around Mumbai.
My query is- what Camera mode is preferable while shooting birds ?
Shutter priority, Aperture Priority or Full manual? Use of Auto-Iso in any of these modes.

I personally find logic in either using Shutter priority with Auto-Iso/fixed iso or then
Full manual with auto-iso and compensation for minor exposure changes.

But many big wildlife photographers are suggesting aperture priority +controlling the iso manually.

Can i have better explanations or logic behind either of them?

There's no simple answer, since there are two major variables in this equation.

1. Static Birds vs Birds in Flight
2. Your camera body

Minor variables would be the color of the bird (under or over exposure may be required), the amount of light available (will determine the maximum iso you can comfortably use), your familiarity with your camera, shoulder/arm strength etc.


Shutter speed is the first critical parameter. As slow as you can go for static birds, and as fast as your comfortable iso range allows for birds in flight (which will also depends on the birds and their distance from you).

Option 1 - the easiest option would be to start with shutter priority mode and leave the iso floating upto your chosen limit. This usually means that you will be shooting wide open. Which is fine if the depth of field and lens sharpness are satisfactory at that aperture.

Option 2 - Manual mode, controlling both shutter speed and aperture, and letting iso float. Allows you the additional control over your depth of field and lens sharpness.


Option 3 - This one is complicated and camera dependent. Some high end cameras allow you to switch between two entirely different settings for your shot simply by using two different buttons for back button AF. You can set your primary shooting mode to something satisfactory for what you are currently doing (say high shutter speeds for birds in flight) and set the secondary mode to a much slower shutter speed for static birds. Then you simply move your thumb slightly to activate the second mode instantly. Some cameras also allow you to change the AF points arrangement with the press of a button (The joystick on Nikon D500, for example). You could have a cluster of points active for the regular mode, and just a single pin point AF point for static birds.


Birding is very demanding on gear. And something that needs a lot of practice just to get the technicalities right. Then come the composition and post processing skills.


Have fun.  :)

[Bharat Varma]

If you are starting out, try all the methods you have been advised and settle on what suits you best. Everyone who gave you an opinion felt it worked for them. You have to find what works best for you.

Having said that, I do not use aperture priority because I want full control of my (high) shutter speed to counter the bird's movements which frequently happen even when the bird appears static. Micro-movement of perched birds is inversely proportional to the size of the bird. Small bird-more movement, large bird-less movement.  I gave up using shutter priority quite early in my birding experience because the budget zoom tele - lenses that I started out with, had variable aperture - usually F5.6 at the short end and F6.3/F8 at the long end, complicating the issue.

I use full manual (M)with a fixed ISO for birds that are perched and full manual (M) with auto ISO for flying birds. Flying birds particularly against changing backgrounds (trees, water, open ground or sky) often require dynamic (varying) exposure for optimal tonality.

How do you switch quickly between the two, Krish?

Does your camera allow two buttons to be used for BBAF? With different settings?

(Turning the dial for C1/C2 etc. isn't quick enough, imo).

[Krish Chandran]

How do you switch quickly between the two, Krish?

Does your camera allow two buttons to be used for BBAF? With different settings?

(Turning the dial for C1/C2 etc. isn't quick enough, imo).

The Nikon Z8/Z9 allows the "i menu" to be customized to switch Shooting banks (a slightly more evolved version than what was on the D500/D850)
Shooting bank A can be customized for one profile (static birds) and B for another (BIF). Banks C and D are also available for additional profiles.
Additionally, a function button can be customized for "cycle AF area mode" to go from say single point to an area mode with one press of the function button. While setting it I choose only two out of a possible 6 choices so with one press I can switch to and a second press to revert.
It is also possible to set AF area modes on the "joystick" like on the D500 if that is what the photographer prefers.
More choices/ options as the cameras advance

Still, I really loved the U1/U2 knob that was on my old D750. I wish they get that back :D

[Bharat Varma]

Nikon banks are complicated, and that still means an additional button press if I get it right.
Can't switch with the camera held to the eye, right?


Canon really does seem to get this better.
One rear AF button to shoot birds in flight, another rear button for static birds. And there's a huge range of settings that you can customize for the alt button, including exposure compensation if required.


Both Canon and Nikon should learn from each other. I really miss the double press delete from Nikon. :)

[Thad E Ginathom]

The Nikon Z8/Z9 allows the "i menu" to be customized to switch Shooting banks (a slightly more evolved version than what was on the D500/D850)

Sony has a similar(?) system where pressing a button gives you an overriding set of settings. In fact, you can three buttons, three sets. I guess that, for it to be fast enough, it might need to to be thumb-on-button*finger-on-shutter.

I've never tried it. But I do come across people who find it genuinely useful.

[Abhishek Paranjape]

Option 1 - the easiest option would be to start with shutter priority mode and leave the iso floating upto your chosen limit. This usually means that you will be shooting wide open. Which is fine if the depth of field and lens sharpness are satisfactory at that aperture.


Option 3 - This one is complicated and camera dependent. Some high end cameras allow you to switch between two entirely different settings for your shot simply by using two different buttons for back button AF. You can set your primary shooting mode to something satisfactory for what you are currently doing (say high shutter speeds for birds in flight) and set the secondary mode to a much slower shutter speed for static birds. Then you simply move your thumb slightly to activate the second mode instantly. Some cameras also allow you to change the AF points arrangement with the press of a button (The joystick on Nikon D500, for example). You could have a cluster of points active for the regular mode, and just a single pin point AF point for static birds.



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i have a nikon D4 and have 4 shooting banks which can be conveniently changed by using either the preview button or function button. so i can keep different settings for either in flight or resting birds.

will try this option out definitely.

[Abhishek Paranjape]

If you are starting out, try all the methods you have been advised and settle on what suits you best. Everyone who gave you an opinion felt it worked for them. You have to find what works best for you.

Having said that, I do not use aperture priority because I want full control of my (high) shutter speed to counter the bird's movements which frequently happen even when the bird appears static. Micro-movement of perched birds is inversely proportional to the size of the bird. Small bird-more movement, large bird-less movement.  I gave up using shutter priority quite early in my birding experience because the budget zoom tele - lenses that I started out with, had variable aperture - usually F5.6 at the short end and F6.3/F8 at the long end, complicating the issue.

I use full manual (M)with a fixed ISO for birds that are perched and full manual (M) with auto ISO for flying birds. Flying birds particularly against changing backgrounds (trees, water, open ground or sky) often require dynamic (varying) exposure for optimal tonality.

thank you for the explanation of all the 3 modes.

[Abhishek Paranjape]

Nikon banks are complicated, and that still means an additional button press if I get it right.
Can't switch with the camera held to the eye, right?


Canon really does seem to get this better.
One rear AF button to shoot birds in flight, another rear button for static birds. And there's a huge range of settings that you can customize for the alt button, including exposure compensation if required.


Both Canon and Nikon should learn from each other. I really miss the double press delete from Nikon. :)

the different banks on my camera can be switched without taking the eye, needs a button press ( either index or middle finger near the grip) and the dial to cycle through all 4 banks.