[Canon RF] Confused about Lens selection!!

[bb_13]

I recently bought Canon R10 with 18-45 kit lens, the camera is good but the lens sucks, especially in indoor photography in normal house light as the min ap is F4.5.

I am thinking about getting new lens(es) with decent low light performance. I am interested in RF 35mm F1.8 but that is bit costly (around 37-38k new), I noticed that most pre-owned lens are EF mount so what would be better choice? Getting a costly RF 35mm F1.8 or getting EF-RF adapter (Canon original is 7-8k, viltrox etc 5-6k) and finding pre-owned EF series lenses.

Also, there are these TTArtisan and 7Artisan MF lenses available at around 7-8k (this one looks interesting - https://www.designinfo.in/p/ttartisan-35mm-f-1-4-lens-for-canon-ef-m-black ) Are these any good? How difficult it is to work with MF? Should I think about these or only look for AF options?

Edit:
The main use case for the lens(es) will be for indoor photography without additional lighting (home/room with limited lighting like light coming from windows during day time and LED ceiling lights at night time. Cannot setup additional lighting solutions.)

[DeepakS]

I recently bought Canon R10 with 18-45 kit lens, the camera is good but the lens sucks, especially in indoor photography in normal house light as the min ap is F4.5.

I am thinking about getting new lens(es) with decent low light performance. I am interested in RF 35mm F1.8 but that is bit costly (around 37-38k new), I noticed that most pre-owned lens are EF mount so what would be better choice? Getting a costly RF 35mm F1.8 or getting EF-RF adapter (Canon original is 7-8k, viltrox etc 5-6k) and finding pre-owned EF series lenses.

Also, there are these TTArtisan and 7Artisan MF lenses available at around 7-8k (this one looks interesting - https://www.designinfo.in/p/ttartisan-35mm-f-1-4-lens-for-canon-ef-m-black ) Are these any good? How difficult it is to work with MF? Should I think about these or only look for AF options?

The answers to your questions are "it depends".
Depends on the subject or genre of photography you intend to pursue.
You wrote 3 paragraphs on how you "feel" about a lens or camera but nothing about what your intended use case is. If you want genuine informed opinion on which way you should lean, tell us in some detail what you intend to use them for.

[bb_13]

The answers to your questions are "it depends".
Depends on the subject or genre of photography you intend to pursue.
You wrote 3 paragraphs on how you "feel" about a lens or camera but nothing about what your intended use case is. If you want genuine informed opinion on which way you should lean, tell us in some detail what you intend to use them for.

Thanks for pointing out about usage, as I mentioned mostly I am looking for day to day indoor photography like kids, family functions etc. (lighting may be tricky in these cases like light coming from windows, ceiling LED batons, lights etc.)
I will be also using the Camera on trips also but that part I am not worried about much as usually in those cases I have proper lighting and the images are good there.

[Monster]

No lens with provide great result indoors as much as using a bounce flash. Learn to use it and a 8000 rupees flash will outset the result of a 50 1.2

[g2]

You've mentioned indoor kids and family function, I would rule out the MF lens for this. It would be fiddley using MF in these scenarios and would result in a lot of OOF / missed shots. Plus the R series has fantastic eye/subject AF tracking, why waste that.

A flash, as others have mentioned, would do you good indoors.

I personally use EF lens on my R camera and would recommend this, there are saving to be had here and they work darn well. They do add on a bit of weight and  the setup gets larger with the adapter, etc.

Most of the EF lens are quality glass, and some L series lens can now be had at a fraction of the cost compared to their R counterparts.

If you use filters; a drop in filter adapter does wonders. This is one big reason I'll keep my EF lens.

[DeepakS]

The answers to your questions are "it depends".
Depends on the subject or genre of photography you intend to pursue.
You wrote 3 paragraphs on how you "feel" about a lens or camera but nothing about what your intended use case is. If you want genuine informed opinion on which way you should lean, tell us in some detail what you intend to use them for.

Thanks for pointing out about usage, as I mentioned mostly I am looking for day to day indoor photography like kids, family functions etc. (lighting may be tricky in these cases like light coming from windows, ceiling LED batons, lights etc.)
I will be also using the Camera on trips also but that part I am not worried about much as usually in those cases I have proper lighting and the images are good there.

Everyday indoor lighting will give any camera- lens combination a tough time. Incorrect direction of the light , inconsistent brightness and varying levels of colour temperature (florescent vs warm) will pose challenges.  This why the flash /speedlight was invented. Along with flash you can use filters (on the flash) to adjust (normalize) the excessive yellow or blue look that comes with home/office indoor lighting. Filters are also used directly on lenses but those are mostly recommended for outdoor use.

Bounce flash with a flash modifier (like Magmod)  is a good option if your walls are white or near white. But if your walls are coloured, it will throw (reflected) coloured light on the subjects, complicating matters. That's where the filters become useful. A blue filter counters a predominantly yellow light and a yellow filter counters a mostly blue light (Yellow and blue being opposite colours on a digital colour wheel). If your walls are pink or purple or green . . well, your level of difficulty goes up.

When considering the aperture of the lens, shallow DOF pictures from F1.8 lenses is what you will want for portraits of single persons. . say a child or an adult. But when you have more than one person in the frame you will want to increase your DOF to a higher F number - say F4 or even 5.6 else two out of three may not be in perfect focus. So it may be wise to identify what your majority subject is likely to be - portraits or wider group pictures - or action shots around the house to determine if you really want to spend the extra money  you will need to buy an F1.8 lens, or will an F4 do just as well. Buy a lens that serves the majority of your usage and work around the lesser usage by posing or lighting.

Coming to the part about EF versus RF lens on a RF body think about the following logic.
All the three major camera manufacturers (Sony/Canon/Nikon) now almost exclusively produce only mirrorless equipment. The converters such as the EF to RF were made for existing customers to continue using their previously purchased - already in use - lenses with the new camera bodies - to ease them into the mirrorless world without too big a financial hit, all at once. The expectation is that after some use of a new mirrorless body, the next lens they purchase will be a ML one while continuing to use older lenses they previously had. It is true that EF lenses are cheaper than RF lenses and will continue to drop in price. However, your first purchase of a camera or lens will not be your last - you will upgrade. At that time you will get better resale value from an RF lens than an EF lens. 

One more thing - I made a mention above, about action shots around the house. For that you will need a faster focusing lens (not to be confused with the generally used term fast lens which usually refers to low F number lenses like F2, F1.8 or F1.4, not their focusing speed) which will quickly lock on to your subject(s) like children or pets running about or even people dancing at a function. RF lens are generally faster at acquiring & locking focus than EF lenses, across the board. 

I hope this clarifies your purchase options, somewhat.

[Nishit Dave]

Get a stabilised EF-S lens and use it with the official Canon mount adapter. A flash would be very helpful for indoor photography, but direct flashes look awful. As others have suggested, you can use a light modifier or bounce flashes off the ceiling (doesn't work with black ceilings in restaurants and coloured ceilings can cause a colour cast).

You can also buy a cheap manual flash and learn to use it through trial and error instead of buying a costlier TTL flash.

[bb_13]

Thanks guys for your valuable inputs, I would definitely try to learn about flash photography, never tried TBH. I tired with inbuilt pop-up flash but it looks very harsh, similar to flash photography on smartphone, I think I would probably need external flash. What would be some entry level options compatible with Canon R10? I looked up some options on Amazon but most low budget flashes mention compatible with multiple cameras (Nikon, Canon, Fuji etc. for e.g. this one from Godox)

Do these flash works fully compatible with Canon R10 or there is some catch?

Also, for fast moving subjects like kids, flash photography will work where I need to take couple of photos in burst mode to get a perfect shot?

[bb_13]

Get a stabilised EF-S lens and use it with the official Canon mount adapter. A flash would be very helpful for indoor photography, but direct flashes look awful. As others have suggested, you can use a light modifier or bounce flashes off the ceiling (doesn't work with black ceilings in restaurants and coloured ceilings can cause a colour cast).

You can also buy a cheap manual flash and learn to use it through trial and error instead of buying a costlier TTL flash.

Official Canon adapter is 7-8k I saw one guy selling no-brand adapter for 4k, that would be good option or I should opt for branded only?

[DeepakS]

Also, for fast moving subjects like kids, flash photography will work where I need to take couple of photos in burst mode to get a perfect shot?

It depends. For most budget flashes, if you set your flash to manual mode in low power and the batteries are fresh, you may get 2/3 shots in a burst before the flash switches off to recycle. Practically that means that in a burst of 5 shots, the first 2 may be lit by flash and the balance 3, not. Generally speaking, you cannot reliably depend upon a cheap flash to support burst mode.